Jewelry Allergy: More of a Hazard than Previously Believed
Skin disease-both mild and severe-is on the increase. Much remains to
learn about skin diseases, but two things are certain- women with pierced
ears are more vulnerable to them, and adverse reactions to fashion jewelry
are much greater than previously reported.
PEMBROKE, MA (December 1994) - It has been well known for generations that
pierced ears can be a health hazard (over 100 years ago, the Journal of
the American Medical Association condemned ear piercing as "unnecessary,
inexcusable and barbaric.") However, studies over the last twenty years
overwhelmingly show a rapid and dramatic rise in metal allergies coinciding
with the advent of mechanized ear piercing in the late 1970s.
Most research of the phenomenon has focused on nickel allergy as the culprit,
as nickel is used in the manufacture of most fashion jewelry. However, recent
research by Charles Vermette of Roman Research, a jewelry manufacturer in
Pembroke, MA indicates that the causes of jewelry dermatitis go beyond mere
nickel allergy. "Most research uses a figure of 5% to 10% of the population
as being allergic to nickel. However, this figure is an estimate for the
general population. When gender and ear piercing are taken into account,
the figure is much higher." Furthermore, Vermette adds, "when
clinical populations are asked if they've have adverse reactions to wearing
metal objects, the numbers approach the 35 to 50% mark. " Vermette
sights a Danish study done in 1990. The Glostrup Allergy study, done by
Doctors Niels Henrik Nelson and Torkil Menne, aimed at evaluating nickel
sensitization and ear piercing among a non-clinical population. Subjects
were divided by gender, age group, pierced ears and an overall history of
metal sensitivity. A sample of 8000 men and women, aged 15 to 69, were selected
at random from the greater Copenhagen area and sent a postal survey. 6998
responded; of these 567 submitted to "patch testing." (in which
subjects have a standard series of compounds placed on the skin, and read
at set intervals for reactions.)
The subjects were given a definition of eczema as "an itching skin
disease showing redness, dryness, and eventually cysts, blisters and discharge."
They were then asked if they had pierced ears and if they had ever had eczema
from wearing metal objects. Among the women in the 15 to 34 age group, 91.5%
had pierced ears and half reported eczema in metal contact sites.
Only about 20%, however, showed a positive patch test reaction to nickel.
When asked about this discrepancy Vermette explains, "skin reactions
to foreign substances can be broken down into two main categories-allergic
reactions and irritant reactions. Unfortunately for those with metal allergies,
the clinical manifestations of the two are the same. What is known is that
chemical irritants further allergic reactions, and vice versa. (For instance,
women involved in "wet work" -hairdressers in particular- have
a propensity for developing metal and jewelry allergy. This is due to their
constant contact with irritant chemicals.) The bottom line is that we're
just beginning to discover the relationship between irritants and allergens."
There is a bright side for women who've experienced adverse reactions to
jewelry. Jewelry can be made of materials that do not cause irritant or
allergic reactions. Highly polished Surgical grade stainless steel can be
used to create jewelry with the look and feel of silver. The base of stainless
steel can be electroplated with 24 karat gold for a "goldtone"
look. Recently developed methods of "nickel free" plating are
a major step forward, as they allow for casted designs and for the creation
of hypoallergenic rings, chains, necklaces, and pins. According to Roman
Research Vice President Dale Southworth, "this makes for a level of
design detail that once was impossible. Conventional findings (the pieces
used to design jewelry) are treated with copper, and then a layer of Palladium
or Gold. The result are glamorous pieces that approach the look, fee land
quality of fine jewelry." Roman's Perfections line, created with this
new technology, has been an outstanding success. Southworth adds that, "for
years, our customers were asking us to expand our line. While our Simply
Whispers earrings continue to be popular, our Perfections line has expanded
to almost half of our catalog."
Roman's line of "Perfections Fashion Jewelry" is marketed exclusively
through their "Simply Whispers" catalog. Roman's "Simply
Whispers Fashion Earrings for Sensitive Ears" are also sold through
Wal-Mart, Ulta3 Cosmetic Savings Centers, Merle Norman Studios, and the
Long's and Raley's Drug Store Chains. Roman offers a free pair of their
earrings with all inquiries. A catalog and free introductory pair of Simply
Whispers earrings can be obtained by calling 1-800-451-5700, or by writing
to: Roman Research, c/o Simply Whispers, 33 Riverside Drive, Pembroke MA
02359-1910.